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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.